What is a Native Plant?
Native or indigenous plants are species that have evolved naturally in a specific region, forming essential relationships with local wildlife and ecosystems. In California, native plants existed before European settlers introduced foreign species. These natives are well adapted to local conditions like climate, soil, and rainfall, often needing little water, pesticides, or fertilizer. While some non-native plants can naturalize and integrate well, others become invasive. Native plants are ideal for supporting local biodiversity, offering food and shelter to native birds, bees, and butterflies, and typically require less maintenance when properly cared for in gardens.
Native plants are naturally resistant to local pests and diseases, reducing the need for pesticides that can harm beneficial insects and pollute waterways. Once established, many California natives require little irrigation, helping conserve water and save money. They also support local wildlife by providing essential food and habitat.
Using native plants helps maintain balanced ecosystems, while invasive non-native species can displace natives and disrupt food chains. Native insects rely on specific plants for reproduction, and their decline impacts birds and other animals. Every species plays a role in ecosystem health, making native plant preservation vital for biodiversity.
Designing the Native Habitat
When selecting native plants for your garden, choose species suited to your local microclimate and landscape needs, considering their benefits to wildlife (nectar, pollen, shelter). It's better to match plants to the site than alter the site. Use a diverse range of plants with varying bloom times and forms (trees, shrubs, perennials) to support biodiversity and create layered habitats. Account for mature plant size, sunlight, moisture, and seasonal changes. Choose non-toxic plants if children visit and avoid invasive or spreading species where not appropriate. Leave areas of bare, undisturbed soil for ground-nesting native bees, which are vital pollinators.
Add natural elements like rocks, logs, and bare soil to support wildlife and pollinators. Plant in moderate temperatures—preferably autumn—and keep young plants watered. Avoid pesticides and herbicides to preserve a healthy ecosystem. Even small native gardens contribute to restoring biodiversity.
Starting a Native Garden
To start a native garden, first assess your site’s conditions—light, shade, and water sources. Plant native species in late fall (the start of the rainy season) for best results, though winter and early spring are also suitable. Sow seeds after the first rainfall to promote root growth and spring flowering; label your plantings. This timing applies to wildflower seeds, native bulbs, and transplanting nursery plants. For potted natives, plant before the first rain. At the nursery, choose plants that are not root-bound and smaller plants for higher success.
Follow this order when planting: start with trees, leaving enough space for them to reach their full size; add shrubs next, placing them between trees or along borders while keeping pathways clear; finally, incorporate herbaceous plants, making sure they’re not crowded by the roots of larger plants.
Planting
Native plants tend to thrive when planted from smaller containers, although they may develop top growth slowly as they establish. Avoid overcrowding—give each plant room to grow to maturity. Plant on cool days or early mornings.
When planting, make sure the plant’s root ball is well-watered before you begin. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and about twice as wide. Gently remove the plant from its pot, loosen the roots, and add some of the soil from the root ball back into the hole to mix with the native soil. Place the plant so it sits slightly higher than the surrounding ground, then backfill with native soil and water until the soil is moist to the depth of the roots. Apply a two-inch layer of mulch, keeping three to four inches clear around the crown where roots meet the stem. Take care not to overwater. If the soil is too wet and sticks to your shovel, wait for it to dry out.
This video shows the process in action. This method of planting works for non-native plants as well. How To Plant A Native Plant
Watering
Most California natives need minimal water once established and can be overwatered. During the first season, water deeply and regularly to keep the root ball moist; water in winter if rainfall is scarce. Watering guidelines:
- 1st year: Water weekly (unless it rains).
- 2nd year: Every two weeks for low water plants.
- 3rd year: Every three weeks for drought-tolerant plants.
- 4th year+: Once a month for very low water plants.
During dry winters (Nov–Apr), water every two weeks if there is no rain. Check soil moisture two weeks after rain; if the top 2–6 inches are dry, water (even in winter). Apply water at the drip line (not the trunk) and avoid wetting leaves. Water slowly to soak clay soils—6 inches deep for herbaceous plants, 12 inches for trees or shrubs. Always check soil before watering and adjust for drought conditions.
Soil, Fertilizer, and Mulch
Native plants are easy to grow – so long as you don't overdo it with soil amendments or other unnecessary additions. Many natives can live for decades with very little care. In most cases, native plants do not need (or appreciate) amendments. Most prefer lean, native soil with nothing added. Avoid fertilizer. Natives get what they need from native soil. Compost promotes healthy soil and plants. All potted natives need a little fertilizer to replace nutrients washed away. Use compost or ¼ strength organic slow release.
Use a layer of mulch avoiding the trunk of trees and the base of shrubs. Place the
mulch over the irrigation (if you are using). Leaving the natural leaf litter on the ground to reduce weeds, provide nutrients for your soil, regulate and temperatures. Spring is a good time to replenish the mulch in the garden. In summer and fall, add as needed to keep a 4-to-6-inch layer for trees and shrubs, keeping away from the main stem or trunk (around the drip line). Potted natives need mulch, too!
Type of mulch type on type of plant:
- Small wood chips, bark or arbor mulch around woodland or coastal scrub plants
- Gravel or gold fines around succulents, chaparral and desert plants
- Leaf litter protects soil and decomposes. Don’t throw it away.
- NO plastic landscape fabric (promotes unhealthy, anaerobic soil and critters can’t get through).
Using biodegradable mulch helps the soil retain moisture, suppresses weed growth, and keeps the ground temperature stable. As the mulch breaks down, it nourishes your plants, enhances the appearance of your garden, and adds organic matter that improves drainage and supports a healthy soil ecosystem.
Pesticides, Herbicides, and Weeds
Pesticides are rarely used. Let the plant’s natural defenses and beneficial insects provide protection. No herbicides – they were initially developed to kill native plants. Pull out as much weed root as possible or remove the top multiple times. Most weeding is easier during and right after rainy season. Young weeds without flowers and seeds can be composted.
Pruning and Deadheading
Pruning helps develop the structure of maturing native plants and enhances the appearance of plants late in the season. Know your plants and know how and when they like to be pruned; it is most often when they are dormant. Pruning is not usually necessary for the first year. As a rule of thumb, deciduous trees and shrubs are pruned in winter, evergreen trees and shrubs are pruned and/or deadheaded after the rain stops in spring. In summer, deadhead and prune summer dormant plants. In fall, deadhead only. While commonly done for non-natives, many gardeners prefer to leave flowers after bloom to let seeds ripen for birds. Always use sharp, clean tools to prevent disease. This webpage on Pruning Natives from UC Marin Master Gardeners has more in depth information about pruning.
Tidying up the Garden
Sweep small leaves and garden debris into the garden beds for mulch and eventually compost. Weeds with flowers and seeds are best in the city yard waste bins. Do not use a blow
er to move debris into the garden beds as it compacts the soil and removes the mulch.
With California natives, less really is more. A little planning goes a long way toward creating a vibrant, resilient garden that thrives year after year—with minimal input and maximum beauty. Let your garden work in harmony with nature.
Resources for Native Plant Selection