Paige Weisskirch, UC Master Food Preserver Online Program Volunteer

Image credit: capecodprof from Pixabay, 2013

 

This month, many Americans celebrated Independence Day with home-canned jams, pickled vegetables, and smoked meats, foods that connect us to a long tradition of preservation. What many don't realize is that food preservation played a quiet but crucial role in the fight for American independence more than 240 years ago. Lacking refrigeration or modern food safety science, colonists and soldiers relied on practical, resourceful methods to keep food edible. These preservation techniques helped sustain households, kept the Continental Army fed, and laid the foundation for today's science-based standards.

In the 18th century, preservation wasn't a pastime; it was a matter of survival. Colonists used drying, salting, pickling, smoking, fermenting, sugaring, potting, and cool storage to extend the shelf life of their food. Without an understanding of microbes, they relied on sensory cues, tradition, and community knowledge to judge whether food was safe to eat. Mistakes, unfortunately, were common; for instance, preserved foods contaminated by botulinum toxin have no discernible “off” odor or visually identifiable signs.

One lesser-known colonial staple that some of us might be repulsed by today, was souse, also known as head cheese. Made by boiling a pig's head and preserving the meat and gelatin in vinegar, souse was a protein-rich food that made use of parts that would otherwise be discarded. Another common method was potting, which involved cooking meat and sealing it in a crock with a layer of fat or butter to block oxygen. These foods were stored in cool areas like cellars or springhouses and were expected to last through harsh winters. Potted beef, potted hare, and preserved fish were common items in colonial pantries.  We continue that tradition by modern “confit” preservations recipes that require frozen storage for safety.

Vegetables were preserved by vinegar pickling or fermentation. Cabbage was turned into sauerkraut and stored in crocks, providing essential vitamin C during the winter months. Fruits were preserved with sugar into syrups, conserves, or fruit leathers. Drying was widespread: apples and peaches were sliced and sun-dried on screens, and meats were turned into jerky or smoked sausages. Beans and herbs were tied into bundles and hung in kitchens.

For soldiers in the Continental Army, preserved food was essential for their survival. The official ration called for meat, flour or bread, legumes, and beverages like cider or spruce beer. However, spoilage, transport delays, and harsh weather meant these rations were often late or never arrived. Soldiers relied on salted meat, hardtack, dried legumes, and any foraged or pilfered food they could find. In winter encampments like Valley Forge, many soldiers went for days without sufficient food.

The consequences of failed preservation could be deadly. Without an understanding of bacterial contamination, colonists sometimes consumed spoiled food that looked and smelled fine. Foodborne illnesses like enteritis caused by Clostridium perfringenst, botulism, and staphylococcal food poisoning were likely widespread, though none of these bacteria-caused illnesses were understood at the time. Improper salting, inadequate smoking, or failed seals on potted foods also created conditions ripe for microbial growth.

In military camps, large batches of food were often prepared in advance and kept warm for extended periods, ideal conditions for bacterial multiplication. Perishable items like dairy or meat, when left in the "danger zone" (between 40°F and 140°F), can develop high bacterial counts in just a few hours. Although colonists couldn't have known these temperature thresholds, the pattern of reported gastrointestinal outbreaks aligns with what we now understand about foodborne pathogens.

The harsh lessons of colonial food preservation gradually led to new technologies and practices. Canning was developed in France in the early 1800s during the Napoleaonic wars and reached American homes after John Mason's 1858 invention of the screw-top Mason jar. By the 20th century, scientific research had revealed the role of microbes, pH (acidity), oxygen, and temperature in food spoilage and safety. With these discoveries came the creation of reliable, research-based preservation methods.

Today, organizations like the USDA and UC Master Food Preservers provide home preservers with information on safe practices. Modern techniques, such as pressure canning, water bath canning, atmospheric steam canning, and controlled fermentation, are based on microbial science research. Recipes are tested for the importance of acidity, heat penetration, and storage safety. We no longer need to rely on guesswork or tradition to keep you, your family, and your friends safe.

The preservation methods used by early Americans reflected their resilience, ingenuity, and deep connection to seasonal food. While many of us are fortunate and no longer need to preserve food to survive winter, many of us do so for sustainability, emergency preparedness, flavor, and tradition. At UC Master Food Preservers, we look to the past for inspiration, but always rely on the present for safe, tested methods.

Whether you're canning tomatoes or drying peaches this summer, know that you are part of a long legacy of preservation, one that now stands on a solid foundation of science and public education. Whether passed around a picnic table in July or pulled from the pantry in January, preserved foods remain a powerful expression of both independence and community.