Composting is gaining popularity thanks to its many benefits—not just for individuals, but also for the environment.
With various composting methods available, it can easily be adapted to suit any gardening style. In fact, under California’s SB1383, composting plays a key role in reducing short-lived climate pollutants and supports edible food recovery efforts. Curious about getting started? Learn how you can begin composting right in your own backyard.

Why compost?
Compost, commonly referred to as “black gold,” saves water by helping the soil hold moisture and reduce water runoff. As it builds soil health, it sustains the environment by recycling organic resources and conserving landfill space. Compost reduces the need for commercial soil conditioners and petrochemical fertilizers, improving plant growth by providing supplemental amounts of slow-release nutrients. By increasing soil organic matter, compost encourages healthy root structure – lightening clay soils and helping sandy soils hold water. This, in turn, attracts and feeds earthworms and other beneficial soil microorganisms. Compost helps balance pH (acidity/alkalinity) and control soil erosion. Weatherwise, it helps protect plants from drought and freezes decreases. And California believes it is so important that they introduced a bill to encourage Californians to take action on making their communities healthier.
What is SB1383?
SB 1383 is a California state law designed to reduce short-lived climate pollutants, especially methane, by diverting organic waste from landfills. Organic waste includes food scraps, yard trimmings, and soiled paper. When landfilled, this waste produces methane, a powerful greenhouse gas. Composting it instead reduces emissions and improves soil health.
SB 1383 requires all jurisdictions (authorities responsible for implementing SB 1383) to educate the community about organic waste management, provide organic waste collection services to residents and businesses, and ensure access to recycling and food recovery infrastructure. In addition, it requires the establishment of edible food recovery programs and the purchase of products made from recycled organic materials. Lastly, it monitors and enforces compliance.
To assist the efforts of SB 1383, large businesses can donate edible food to support food insecure populations. Orange County residents can reduce food waste and businesses can donate edible food.
It is also important to learn the local waste sorting rules. Waste haulers in each city/jurisdiction are required to implement changes to their services to comply with SB 1383 and this includes organic waste collection from residents and businesses. There are several waste haulers in Orange County. To find yours, contact the city in which you live. This step will help gardeners and residents to compost through the community program. Take this opportunity to educate others about SB 1383 and about its environmental benefits. For additional recycling guidelines, go to CalRecycle.
And now, we hope you are one of the gardeners who choose to take the final step – starting to compost. It just takes a few tools, materials, and a basic understanding of how it works.
Getting Started
Choose a location that allows 3-5 feet of space on each side. The pile of compostable material needs at least 3 feet to activate enough heat for decomposition. The structure/bin should be open along one side to allow space to dig and turn the pile. It does not matter whether the structure is in sun or shade because the temperature is dependent on the composition of the materials, not exposure to sun. Make sure there is access to water to maintain moisture.
Decide on what type of structure to use. A structure can be prefabricated – purchased from store that sells gardening equipment/supplies – or can be home made, perhaps using concrete blocks, wood, wood pallets, straw bales, hardware cloth, or wire fencing. Do not use treated wood. Keep two structures side by side so that one can be used for assembling composting material, and the other for actually actively composting. This could also allow for turning the compost from one bin to another.
Use a tarp, cardboard, or straw to cover the pile so that moisture and heat are maintained. Make sure there is adequate air circulation under the cover.
Acquire needed equipment. Most gardeners use a compost fork. Some use a compost thermometer, and others may use a chipper/shredder.
Basics of a Compost Pile
The compost pile needs to achieve a ratio of carbon to nitrogen of 30:1. This is accomplished by mixing an equal volume of brown material and green material in equal portions – 1:1. There are four components to composting:
- Browns (carbon). Brown material includes dry leaves, dried grass, straw, woody prunings, coffee filters, eggshells, shredded paper bags, and cardboard boxes.
- Greens (nitrogen). Green material includes vegetable and fruit scraps, fresh grass clippings, wilted flowers, coffee grounds, young green weeds without seed heads.
- Water. Keep pile as moist as a wrung-out sponge. Water is essential for the life of the decomposing organisms. Decomposition will slow in a dry pile.
- Air. Turn the pile for air circulation, to maintain an optimal temperature, and to mix the materials. Mixing prevents dense clumping of materials, common when using grass clippings. The longer between turnings, the longer until the finished compost. The basic rule is to turn the pile every few days to once per week.
Compost Process
- Chop material ½ to 1½ inches to speed up the composting process. Chopping and chipping are most important for the brown material, less so for the succulent greens. Use a chipper, shredder, pruning shears, or a sharp shovel.
- Bury scraps 6-12 inches into the center of the pile. Do not leave food scraps exposed as this can attract flies and rodents.
- Mix equal volumes of carbon-rich dry brown and nitrogen-rich green plant materials.
- Do NOT add soil, wood ashes, manure, seed bearing weeds or invasive plants, diseased plants, animal products, dairy products, oil, grease or fat, glossy paper, or sawdust from treated lumber or plywood.
- Turn every few days to fluff the pile so air can penetrate. Piles organically compress in the compost process, so turning throughout the process is important
- Keep the pile as moist as a wrung-out sponge, watering as it is turned.
- Watch the water content. A foul odor means the pile is too wet or compacted or contains too much green material. The solution is to turn the pile and add brown material. Finished compost should smell earthy, never rancid.
- Check the temperature often. Temperature is a function of pile size, oxygen and moisture organic matter content. Bacteria feeding on nitrogen rich green material produces the heat. The bacteria thrive between 122˚F and 131˚F. Temperatures greater than 131˚F kill many pathogens and weed seeds. Temperatures above 160˚F kill bacteria and will halt the composting process. The ideal temperature range is between 100˚F to 150˚F.
- Harvesting signs of a healthy compost pile are earthy odor, heat, powdery white fungi on decomposing material, a reduction in the size of pile, and a dark brown color. As the compost process finishes, the pile temperature will cool to about 70º F.
- Sift through a ½ inch screen over a wheelbarrow or other container when compost is finished. This will sort out the large unfinished pieces that can be returned for the next compost pile.
Compost Methods
Microorganisms (bacteria and fungi) and macroorganisms (worms, insects, and their relatives) break down the contents of a compost pile. There are several methods of composting, all based on the same basic principles. Select the method that best suits your interest and lifestyle. Factors to consider when choosing methods include the time and energy needed to maintain the pile, the amount of compost needed, and the time needed to achieve the finished product. The process of maintaining and monitoring the pile will vary with the compost method used. Methods include rapid, slow or a combination of the two.
- The slow (passive or cold composting) method takes the least effort and time. Continuously add to pile, little or no chopping of materials, turn and water as desired, finished compost ready in 12 to 18 months.
- The intermediate compost method takes a little more energy and the harvest time is considerably less than slow composting. Build pile with no further additions, chop materials to 2-inch pieces, turn and water pile weekly, finished compost in 3 to 8 months.
- The rapid compost method (also called hot composting) requires more effort than the other methods of composting. It accelerates decomposition of organic waste by maintaining high temperatures within the compost pile. Build pile with no further additions and chop materials to ½ - 1½ inch pieces. Closely monitor temperature of pile. Turn pile immediately if temperature is 150˚F. Turn and water when pile 140-150˚F. As the pile cools, start turning when it reaches 120˚F. Once pile cools below 120˚F turn and water every week. This method uses microbial activity to break down materials and high temperatures also help to kill weed seeds and pathogens. Compost will be ready in 6 to 8 weeks.
Ways to Use Compost
Each compost has its varied properties; therefore, they vary in the ways they can be used. Some can be used as mulch, topdressing, soil amendment, or as an organic fertilizer. Compost can be mixed into flower beds and vegetable gardens before planting to improve soil properties. Do not plant trees in small holes filled with compost -- this could constrain the roots.
DO Compost
- Browns (Carbon)
- Greens (Nitrogen)
- Dry leaves
- Eggshells
- Straw
- Coffee filters
- Hair, lint
- Wood shavings
- Pine needles
- Shredded newspaper, cardboard
- Chopped woody prunings
- Most sawdust
- Shrub and grass clippings
- Flowers
- Coffee grounds
- Green leaves
- Young weeds
- Tea leaves/bags
- Sod
- Fruit and vegetable waste
- Citrus rinds
- Old potting mix
- Well composted herbivore manures
Do NOT Compost
- Dirt/soil
- Stove, fireplace and barbecue ash
- Animal products (meat, bones, fish, grease/oil/fat)
- Well composted herbivore manures
- Glossy paper
- Sawdust from plywood or treated wood
- Diseased plants
- Invasive plants (Bermuda grass, ivy, oxalis, nutsedge)
- Seed-bearing weeds (e.g., Bermuda grass, ivy, oxalis bulbs, burr clover)
- Weeds that have gone to seed, or that spread by roots or bulbs
- Dog, cat or bird waste
- Manure or human waste
Note: Adding manure to compost piles from any animal should be avoided because there is a potential risk of disease-producing bacterial contamination that may be harmful to humans. Commercial composting operations effectively control pathogens. Backyard piles may not, however, because they are smaller and may not maintain sufficient heat.
Caution: Herbicide treated lawn/plants/weeds should not be used in the compost pile for two years after herbicide application. New persistent herbicides are designed to act for several years and may be present in herbivore manures as well. Dispose of treated grass in the green waste can or mulch on the lawn.
References
- Composting Tips and Tricks, Garden Notes #142.
- California Master Gardener Handbook, ANR Publication 3382
- http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/InOrder/Shop/ItemDetails.asp?ItemNo=3382
- Composting for the Home Gardener. PDF. EHN98 UC ANR.
http://sacmg.ucanr.edu/files/163139.pdf
Compost in a Hurry ANR Publication 8037 - http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/InOrder/Shop/ItemDetails.asp?ItemNo=8037
- Composting is Good for Your Garden and the Environment. PDF. UC ANR.
http://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8367.pdf - UC Master Gardeners of San Luis Obispo County, Sacramento County, Placer County
Ready to learn about vermiculture – composting with worms? Check it out here.
The Compost Video Series is a project provided by the Orange County Master Composters. The goal is to give you an overview of composting, tips for building your own composting project, and help with trouble shooting.
If you are have a Mac, use Chrome for your browser to watch these videos. They require Flash and do not seem compatible with Safari.
Please click a link below to view one or all of the videos in the Composting Video Series.
What is Composting?
How to start a compost pile
How to turn a compost pile
What type of compost bin to use
What does NOT go in a compost pile
Trouble shooting your compost pile
What is Hot Method? What is Cold Method?
How long does it take to make compost?
Why are these bugs in my compost pile?
Please click a link below to view one or all of the videos in the Vermiculture - Composting with Worms Video Series.
What is Composting with Worms?
What is a Worm Compost Bin?
Where To Place A Worm Bin
What Kind Of Worms Do You Use?
Worm Food
How Do I Feed The Worms?
Downloads:
What is Composting?